If you’re just tuning in to our Alaska adventures, here are the links to Part I, Part II, Part III, Part IV, Part V, Part VI, Part VII, Part VIII, Part IX, Part X Part XI and Part XII. Where did we leave off last? Days were getting a little slower, but no less interesting. What follows now is a brief dark period – both in weather and in spirits – but it’s no less interesting. For awhile now I’ve wondered how to write the next 2-3 days, but I think the chronological truth is still straight from a story book.
My bear photos from many chapters ago are the only ones you’ll see, I’m afraid to say. We woke up after our second night in Homer and the bear expedition was canceled yet again. We didn’t have another day to waste and wander so after another breakfast at Fresh Sourdough Express, we left Homer for Seward. Not to give us a casual goodbye, we saw a giant moose in a field on our way out of town. We also stopped at an Alaskan gift store to see a giant moose head. How could you not?
The road from Homer to Seward was wet and bear-expedition-canceled-disappointed. I probably dozed off for some of it. I remember snacks and a weird gas station with terrible anti-Obama pictures plastered on every square inch of a wall. The guy behind the counter looked gruff and murderous but he was actually warm and friendly. In Moose Pass, Alaska, we got delicious breve lattes. That means lattes made with cream instead of milk. And they had huckleberry flavored! We called a few places to book a glacier cruise out of Seward and the man on the phone started talking about orcas and chocolate chip cookies.
We arrived in Seward and first did some moose-viewing drives that the ladies in Moose Pass had told us about. We didn’t see any moose, nor in Moose Pass, but we definitely saw fresh bear prints. The air was wild and wet and somehow welcoming too.
We found a place at the Alaskan Wish Lodging & Art Studio which was pretty gorgeous actually. Innkeeper Carol had snacks, a big fat cat, beautiful and clean rooms (with a wall fireplace), and examples of her metal Alaskan art. She told us to hit the Alaska Shop (which her sister ran) as well as Thorn’s Showcase Lounge for the “Bucket o’ Butt” – which was breaded (but I don’t think fried) halibut. We also hit Once in a Blue Moose and I got two Alaska shirts. In the Alaska shop, we picked out a piece of art and she customized it for us to have a moose and a wolf, just like our wedding theme. Best souvenir ever.
Dinner at Thorn’s was fun! The food was exquisite but I was a little too excitable to eat much. I hate when that happens. A nice couple from New Jersey sat next to us. They were touring Alaska before moving from Jersey to Florida. They had gone on a glacier cruise earlier that day, and with the rough weather, they told us that half the boat got seasick. The woman even told us she had puked on herself. Not good for a vomit phobic to hear at dinner, the night before her own cruise!
Can you guess which one I wrote?
When the sun was close to setting, we decided to hike the Exit Glacier. I didn’t think we’d make it but we kept on going. We didn’t make it up to the Harding Ice Field, where there are surely Ice Giants and Ice Spiders, but maybe one day?
All in all, not a great day for bear expeditions or photos, but I’m glad I took a few phone pictures to give you a feel. Alaska is still the most fascinating place I know, and this is only the smallest fraction of it. Stay tuned.